Lolita sex chat

Ten years in the life of a restaurant is one of the best ways to mark the evolution of a city.

But few places illuminate so many changing aspects of our dining world as Lolita, where the spinning "trompo" spit stacked high with a cone of chile-spiced pork is only one of many fresh new details that intrigue me about its renovation.

Just think: When this 50-seat Nuevo Mexicano bistro first opened in 2004 with its pretty salmon tostaditas and virgin margarita mixers, the city's stylish new BYOB revolution was just coming into full bloom.

Developer Tony Goldman's vision was in its infancy for 13th Street, which was still a seedy red-light district.

There are better tequila selections (just across the street at El Vez), and the margarita craftsmanship is spotty - a pith-bitter "clásica" and watery watermelon-rita one night, two excellent variations with blood orange and cucumber-jalapeño the next. But the change in format (and cash flow) has allowed Lolita to actually lower its average dish prices and focus on the kind of multi-plate sharing that has finally become the norm in 2014.

But Turney's culinary approach - inspired by, rather than ruled by, Mexican street food traditions - offers a distinct and appealing (though not necessarily better) alternative to South Philly's now-thriving authentic taqueria scene.

MENU HIGHLIGHTSChicharrones; smoked beef tostadas; tostaditas de atún; guajillo pork "trompo" tacos; fried squash blossom special; duck-fat tamale; Mexico City quesadilla; memelitas; watermelon-beet salad; summer barbacoa; coconut tres leches; pay de queso; avocado-lime ice cream.

The Baja-style tostada with lime-brightened scallops, snapper, and tuna was like eating seafood cocktail atop a crunchy tortilla flat.

Turney's explorations of some traditionally heartier dishes also paid off.

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